On Day 5 in Jaisalmer, Shen Yi, Jothi, Ming and I decided to embark on a food safari. Food safari was an idea that Ming came up with where we would to go round sampling food recommended by the travel guides. Our first stop was Trio, a restaurant highly recommended by both the guide books and by Mohinder. Trio was one of those restaurants that the ang-mohs would love. Inside, it was a little cluttered with contrasting primary colours that Rajasthani favour, well worn embroidered throw pillows and yards of  printed cloths hung on just about every wall. The ambiance was somewhat romantic in dimmed lightings and musicians playing melodious Indian music in the background.  All of us tried the Royal Safari Soup, described in the menu as ‘an experience that one will not forget’. And what an unforgettable experience  it was! The soup tasted just like Maggi Mee soup with eggs in it, watery & tasteless with some rice thrown in.

Our next stop was Tibet Kitchen located on rooftop of a building. Jothi suggested we order Momo which she had tasted when she visited Nepal. We ordered a set of fried vegetarian momo just for taste. The restaurant was very quiet. It had one other table occupied when we arrived. Nevertheless it won’t be able to accommodate too many diners as there were about 6 tables in all. Service was really slow. It took some 15 minutes before someone came to take order and some 30 minutes before food arrived. If it wasn’t for Shen Yi who went in the kitchen to remind the cook, I believe it would have taken much longer time for us to wait. Momo was a kind of dumpling stuffed with chicken meat, vegetables or potatoes. To me, those momos we ate tasted like a cross between Indian samosa and Chinese fried popiah. Jothi gave very direct feedback to the waiter/ owner that the momo did not taste like the ones she tasted before. I sensed that instead of being offended by Jothi’s feedback, the waiter really paid attention because he truly wanted to know.

By the time we headed to the last restaurant, it was getting late. Stalls were closing as we walked along the marketplace area. It took us quite a long walk before we reached the Monica Restaurant. It was crowded mostly with Westerner diners. There were 2 sections, an enclosed area and the balcony area. We took one of the tables located at the balcony area. It was quite nice place as we could see the activities on the street below from where we were seated.

According to Shen Yi, the guide book recommended Muglai Chicken for the Monica Restaurant. Sadly, they no longer serve the dish. That book must have been written quite some time ago. The waiter recommended masala chicken. He informed us that it was the restaurant’s bestseller. We downed our meal with beer and lime soda. It was quite relaxing. After all it had been a long walk for us and we expected another long walk back to our hotel.

A few days into our trip, Ming and I began noticing our assistant driver who also served as an attendant. Both of us agreed that he would make an interesting subject for our photographs. Although small built and bore a quiet presence, he had a sort of exuberance that ‘grew’ on people. His eyes, they twinkled with wonderment whenever he smiled. I notice that people, they often lose this as they get older. Are life experiences so draining to most people that it inevitably takes away our sense of curiosity and of simple acceptance of ‘what-is’? And when this happen, one gets experience etched onto his face, replacing the spring of youth.

I hope that life will be kind to Sonu.

21 December 2009, narrated by Helena

After visiting National Research Center on Camel in Bikaner, we headed to the Bhanda Shala Jain Temple, located on a slightly hilly slope. According to the resident priest, the temple was built some 542 years ago. An interesting fact about the temple is that its entire foundation was built using melted butter mixed with red sandstones. On certain hotter days when temperature rises to a certain degree, one can see butter seeping through marble tiles. The priest showed us around the place, its walls were adorned with miniature paintings that depicted ‘punishment’ for various worldly sins including criticizing others, disrespect to parents, women indulging in random sex and even, swimming naked in the pool!¹ We were informed that these miniature paintings were painted by the same artist who painted Badar Mahal Chamber.

As he took us on a walkabout in the temple’s inner chamber, the priest proudly informed us that his family had been resident priest at the temple since its inception. Today, they are at the 31^st generation. The temple was quite well maintained.

The priest showed us a novel way of taking photograph. We were made to stand in the middle of the room and looked towards the floor. The priest then positioned the camera on the floor and proceeded to snap photos. Generally, the photos turned out quite nice with main focus on the beautifully carved ceiling.

Outside, there were little merchant stores lining both sides of the main street.

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¹ Jainism is an ancient dharmic religion from India that prescribes a path of non-violence for all forms of living beings in this world. Its philosophy and practice rely mainly on self-effort in progressing the soul on the spiritual ladder to divine consciousness. Jainism encourages spiritual development through reliance on and cultivation of one’s own personal wisdom and self-control.

Jains hold that the Universe and Dharma are eternal, without beginning or end. However, the universe undergoes processes of cyclical change. The universe consists of living beings (“Jīva”) and non-living beings (“Ajīva”). The samsarin (worldly) soul incarnates in various life forms during its journey over time. Human, sub-human (animal, insect, plant, etc.), super-human (deity or devas), and hell-being are the four macro forms of the samsari souls. All worldly relations of one’s Jiva with other Jiva and Ajiva (non-living beings) are based on the accumulation of karma and its conscious thoughts, speech and actions carried out in its current form.

There are five basic ethical principles (vows) prescribed. The degree to which these principles must be practiced is different for renunciant and householder. Thus:

• Non-violence (Ahimsa) – to cause no harm to living beings.
• Truth (Satya) – to always speak the truth in a harmless manner.
• Non-stealing (Asteya) – to not take anything that is not willingly given.
• Celibacy (Brahmacarya) – to not indulge in sensual pleasures.
• Non-possession (Aparigraha) – to detach from people, places, and material things.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jainism

After Junagarh Fort, we headed to Karni Mata Mandir, also known as Rat Temple. We arrived at 12:47 p.m. I gave the temple tour, a pass. Besides feeling under the weather, I am also not a fan of mice. I started feeling unwell after leaving Mandawa Desert Hotel. I probably caught a chill after trying to be a gung-ho, braving the chill in summer attires. Actually, I was too embarrassed to admit that I never bothered reading the itinerary. And I also assumed that if I managed to brave the 16-degree Celsius temperature in Sydney, I could do a repeat performance anywhere else! I waited on the bus whilst my fellow tour mates marched bravely to the temple. For the first time, we were also told that visitors to the temple have to take off any attire made of leather!

After like, 20 minutes, the troop returned and we headed to the makan place located on the opposite side of the road where our coach was parked. It was a small stall by the roadside where it served pure vegetarian food. Each of us were given a food tray consisted of 3 dishes (cheese, potatoes and something else I cannot remember) in modest proportion and a piece of chapatti bread. Of course, we were allowed to request for 2^nd or 3^rd helpings. This seemed like a good concept to avoid wastage of food. Personally, the food was rather bland (no msg, for sure). For once, I did not finish my food. Neither did Ming and Terrie. Suat Lee, did not take any at all. Sooi Gaik seemed to be the only person at our table who enjoyed her meal. It fascinated me, watching her finished everything on her tray with relish. I also admired that she was so opened to the experience!

After lunch, a few of us ladies headed to the public toilet. A young boy stood outside the toilet to collect entrance fees. From his gesture, I thought he was trying to tell us that we were not allowed to use water unless we paid entrance fee. Everybody ignored him and just walked in. I felt bad for him – his inability to communicate had placed him at a disadvantage in his job. I sure wish that he was not subjected to beatings whenever he failed to collect his fees. Inside, there were the usual toilets with doors and a few that were opened air ones, with partitions at both sides. I wish I brought an umbrella. It was much better using the partitioned toilets than the closed door ones. Go figure!

Afterwards, I waited outside for the rest. Several old women carrying babies in their arms approached us, begging for money. It was a really sad sight, seeing people begging money for a living. What kind of government the country’s ruling party is, leaving these old folks and young ones without proper means to survive? Having been in India 4 days by now, I seldom came across schools, saved, in New Delhi. On these Rajasthani plains, I guess many children are deprived of access to education either by circumstances or by design. Poverty would repeat itself in endless cycle, through generations. Had there been anyone from these slums who managed to rise above his circumstances to champion the society he was borned into?

Karni Mata is located at Deshnoke, 33 km from Bikaner. The 600 year-old temple, also known as Rat Temple, is dedicated to Shri Karni Mata, who was said to have led a virtuous life committed to the service of the poor and the oppressed. The temple has around 20,000 rats that are fed, protected and worshipped as they are believed to be the incarnations of Karni’s followers. We saw rats feeding on milks contained in huge metal bowls, and prasad (sweets and grains offerings) strewn all over.  Nets and wires were cast over the temple courtyard to avoid the rats falling prey to birds and other predators. 

We have to take off our shoes before stepping into the temple. I took my socks off too, which I later regretted as I could not find anywhere to wash my feet and had to walk around with shoes on my ”uncleaned” feet.  I’ve never thought myself as OCD but one never truly know oneself until one is challenged.  I remembered throughout the time, I could not shake off the uneasiness of stepping on the sticky temple ground and possibly, being a plague carrier. The fear was unfounded, as it seemed, during the SARS epidemic, tests were done at the temple and it was declared disease-free.

Anyway, back to the temple. It was regarded auspicious if a rat ran across your feet, and especially lucky of you could catch sight of a white rat. I bet I won’t be the only one thinking otherwise.  Two sides to a coin; if you are lucky one way, you have to be unlucky the other.  If one steps on the rats, the way to appease and reverse the bad luck is to offer a gold rat statue in return. I don’t know which I was wishing for but I was wishing real hard!

For once, we did not stay long. On the way out, we were asked to extend our palm and the temple attendant spooned some milk onto our palm. “Drink it”, I was told and I think it was that instance my common sense flew out the window. Our fellow travelmates later discussed that the milk might be those that the rats fed on … *gulped* I felt chills down my spine. Oh well, guess I would live to tell.

The Kingdom of Bikaner was first established by Rao Bikaji (1571 – 1611AD) in 1488. He first constructed a fort at Rattighati, bringing with him, heirlooms from the Rathore Dynasty after he relinquished his rights to the Jodphur throne, following a fall out with his father, the Maharajah of Marwar. The Bikaner Dynasty was ruled by 24 maharajahs. As 2^nd son, Rao Bikaji knew he had to build his own kingdom as he had remote chance of inheriting the Marwar throne.                                                                          

According to our travel itinerary, Junagarh Fort was built in 1593 by Raja Rai Singhi, the kingdom’s 6^th maharajah, who rose to prominence after serving Mughal Emperor Akbar as one of his army generals. As was common in Rajasthan, the fortress was built using red sandstones transported on land from some 60 kilometers away and white marbles. The fort precinct is comprised of 27 palaces and a few Jain & Hindu temples. Everything in it showcased a fine marriage of the Mughal and Hindu architectures. It was therefore rather strange to me to see Victorian streetlights amidst this Rajasthani grandeur.                                                                        

There were many layers to the entrance of the fort. On the left side of its main entrance, Daulatpol, were imprints of maharanis who committed sati throughout the history of the fort whenever maharajahs died in battles. Sati was a practice where a wife is burned to death either by will or force with her deceased spouse on his funeral pyre. Prior to committing sati, the maharani would leave an imprint of both her palms to be carved and left on display on the left side of the fort’s entrance. The last Sati held in Junagarh Fort was committed by Maharani Deep Kaur in 1827. The act of Sati was banned by the British government in that same year.                                                                             

We learned that such act was not reserved to widows of deceased maharajahs. It was not unusual for faithful senior ministers who served the maharajah in his lifetime to commit satha, also a form of suicide at stake when the maharajah passed on. Such act was to ensure that secrets of the deceased maharajah were not revealed to the next ruler. Palm imprints of those who committed satha were immortalized on the right side of the fort’s entrance. Jauhar is yet another practice whereby women and children would collectively suicide in advanced of an impending defeat in war. The act of Jauhar was therefore considered a form of bravery, a war cry by womenfolk that they were, too, unafraid to die  just as the men had sacrificed their lives at war.                                                                           

We entered to the Holy Chamber¹, a place where the Color Festival takes place in March, every year. We were told by our guide that during the festival, thousands of hues would brighten the courtyard in presence of the maharajah. A charming (Holichok) gazebo painted in white stood in the middle of the courtyard. I assume that this is where the royal entourage would be sitting during the festival.                                                                             

The three great modernization of Ganga Singh was painted on the fort wall

The reign of Ganga Singh had been the most important in bringing modernity of the Bikaner kingdom. It was Ganga Singh who introduced roads and railways as a mode of transportation. He also brought in education, sanitation and water supply to the kingdom. Electricity would not be available to the Bikaner residents until 1948. Bikaner has been plagued with the lack of water supply for centuries. Huge water retaining ponds were therefore built to keep the crops alive.  Apparently, temperature in Bikaner can rise as high as 45 degree Celsius during summer.                                                                             

We were brought around the fort; walking from one chamber to the next. Majority of these chambers were impressive showcases to highlight the differing interest of each maharajah throughout the course of history. Karan Mahal, for example, had been the only maharajah who took retirement in favor of his son. He was said to be a keen patron of indigenous art which were beautifully preserved in his palace, otherwise also known as Chamber #231. The chamber used to be Karan Mahal’s conference palace. Surrounding the palace were stained glass windows and intricately carved balconies built in stone and wood fluted columns²                                                                         

Today, the chamber is partitioned with glass panels in order to keep everything intact. It was in this chamber I learned that the Muslim culture forbade exhibition of paintings or any art form depicting animals. Only botanical motifs are allowed on display. And what a wonderful that was! I would have loved staying in those chambers for hours, admiring its glorious artistry.                                                               

Adjacent to Chamber #231 used to be a dance hall, surrounded by carved windows. Each window is said to represent a concubine of the maharajah of the day. Tiles were brought in from Sicily to construct it in the 17^th century. The intricate whitewashed jali carvings were too breathtaking for words. Ornate doors built using teak woods surrounded its courtyard.                                                                              

Next, we entered Phool Mahal, Chamber #225 (Flower Palace). This palace was built by Maharajah Rai Singh, 14^th maharajah. Here, various interpretations of the opium plant, said to be very valuable in its medicinal properties, were on display. Our guide told us that milk from opium flower seed is a powerful aphrodisiac, when served in right proportion. One can see the men’s interests visibly perked up at the mention of ‘aphrodisiac’! The guide also told us that medicinal tablets can be made from crushing opium leaves left to dry and after 10 days, mixed together with opium seeds and milk. The tablets can be taken to cure stones, a  common ailment among folks staying in this part of the world due to (over) consumption of salast minerals in the water (it’s true that Indian tap water tasted salty!)                                                                                

A 27 kg sword was among many weapons on display in the Rao Bikaji’s heirloom chamber. I just walked a customary round around the chamber as I was not particularly interested in killing tools.                                                                                

The chamber next to it housed the kingdom’s 10^th maharajah, Anup Mahal’s Throne Room. Resplendent in red and gold, 75% of the room was surrounded by beautiful paintworks, painted using Mughal painting technique and the rest 25% using the Bikaner technique. (Note: As a testament of the dynastic alliance with the Mughal throne – the daughter of Maharajah Rai Singh married Jahanghir, a Mughal emperor. Do watch the movie, Jodhaa Akbar, starring Aishwarya Rai Bachan and Hrithik Roshan. It is a very romantic interpretation of the union!) Some 80 kgs of gold were used to paint gold leaf paintings on the ceiling. I was particularly taken by a rather secluded section of the room, where a huge board was on display explaining, the distinction of major art styles that Anup Mahal championed during his reign. I managed to jot down some extracts of it:                                                                              

“Sonarkin – is styled using a piece of white plaster on which delicate patterns in gold had been painted. The second was in Jayalisuntheir Style; a piece of plaster with green background showing a blooming tree with petals, the green background showing out shining as if it were studded with real emeralds. Manorat – a pillar of clay embossed on a plaster and entire work painted in gold and which gave impression as if the pillar has made of solid gold.”                                                                               

Badal Mahal Chamber #183. Motifs depicting clouds and falling rain were painted in indigo and white. These motifs resembled the way clouds were generally painted in ancient China. According to our guide, the maharajah who built the chamber liked looking at the pouring rain. We were informed that a tank of water was kept in the room, dripping water onto a section of the wall, built to resemble a fireplace. On days when the room temperature is high, condensation would evoke the feeling rain falling from the skies; a true luxury I am sure, even to a maharajah!                                                                                

Sur Mandar Chamber #223. Leading towards the Sue Mandar Chamber were small steps, apparently built by design. Apart from its aesthetic, it was a brillient way to deter enemy’s troops from storming into the maharajah consorts’ chambers. Intruders would be forced instead, to mount the stairways individually. It would only take a couple of soldiers to lay siege at the top of the stairs. Once we reached the top of the stairs we entered a small room that housed a huge blade in the center. The room used to be a meditation room and men, we were told, used to dance atop the sharp blade after meditation.            

Gaj Mandar (Honeymoon) Chamber #323. On the left entrance to the chamber stood an electrical ornamented peacock swing that is still operational until today! The swing was presumably placed there to keep the maharani of the day amused while waiting for the maharajah’s arrival. The middle of the room was surrounded by a series of arched windows. Inside, it was sparsely furnished with a tiny bed (probably the size of a super single bed), a mirror and a couple of chairs. The entire inner chamber was surrounded by pieces of broken mirrors (imported from Belgium) in various shapes and sizes. One only has to light a candle to feel the effect of a starry night surrounding the expanse of the room! The bed was deliberately placed close to the floor to avoid enemy laying siege underneath it. When I thought of it, it would scare the hell out of me to suddenly see shadows reflected by these mirrors! Oh,  what dilemma that would have been for any maharani who slept in this room!               

Moti Mahal Chamber #368. The chamber is actually a courtyard at rooftop of the fort. Shards of broken glasses were planted on outer rims of the fort. It is little wonder why the fort was impenetrable by enemies in its days. Every precaution was taken to ensure security of the maharajah and his subjects. I must say that I found the habits of some of the local tourists, exasperating. For instance, Ming would be trying to catch an angle for her photographs. Upon seeing this and perhaps out of curiosity, some locals would stand infront of her camera and kept looking behind as if to get a feel of what she was seeing through her camera lens! Another common occurence would be whenever I’d admire some artifacts encased in glass boxes, the locals would suddenly appear in droves and soon, I would find myself driven from where I was standing!       

Dungar Niwas Chamber #244. The chamber is consisted of a series of short-distance corridors leading to a larger corridor, parallel to the balcony facing the Holichok gazebo. We were told that this used to be a garden for pregnant ladies. Mirrors were strategically placed on the walls partly to reflect natural sunlight and partly also to protect the ladies from unwanted intrusion.           

Ganga Mahal, Chamber #23 & 24. This was a huge and dimly lit chamber where an old DH-9DE Haviland Plane captured by the Maharajah Gaya Singhi during the World War I was on display together with a vast of weaponry he collected. I was a tad skeptical when we were told by our guide that the plane is still functional, today. Care to experiment, anyone? Apart from that, the chamber used to serve as a conference room where ministers congregated to discuss political issues of its days. Here, miniature portraitures of all its maharajahs were immortalized in one huge painting placed at its far left entrance. The present generation of Bikaner dynasty (24^th maharajah) had 3 daughters and therefore no direct male descendent. He lived until 2003 and the Bikaner dynasty died with him, the day he passed on.                                                                                    

Junagarh Fort is said to be one of the finest land laid forts in India. It endured many attacks and protected its occupants from enemies’ siege. Today, the fort is managed in trust by the Rai Singh Charity Fund. Certain parts of the fort remain the private property of Rai Singh’s present day descendents.                                                                                         

¹ Chamber = Palace                                                                                     

² http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Junagarh_Fort

We stayed 2 nights at the Harasar Haveli owned by the proprietor Arjun Singh. It was built like a YMCA Hostel and facilitated like one, too. Except for the restaurant, there were little about the place that reminded one of the haveli it used to be. The night before, Ming & I ventured outside to search for an Internet Café. Along the way, we bought two each of local mandarin, apples and pomegranates for a total of Rp80. The mandarins were fresh but extremely sour! Internet connection was cheap at Rp10 per 15 minutes. I joked to Ming that it would probably end up costing me if connection is extremely slow. That’s probably why the providers are confident to charge such low price for usage! Alas, it proved me wrong. Access was very fast. In fact, faster than my broadband connection back home!

Bikaner is a dusty oasis town at the northeast of Rajasthan.  Bikaner was founded in the 15th century by Rao Bika, a Rajput prince. It has a rich history of courage and valor of how it flourished despite being in middle of a barren land. It must also be accredited that Bikaner, through its camel trade, managed to maintain its freedom when British increased their territorial influence.

We arrived the hotel at Bikaner before 6pm and Mohinder told us that the hotel rooftop offered a nice view of the sunset. Sunset was expected at 6.30pm. Our room was on the second floor and just like many of the Rajasthani hotels that we stayed in, there was no lift. After lugging our bags up three flights of stairs, I quickly gathered my camera and tripod and off to the rooftop I went.

The sunset was beautiful. Like a canvas, the sun painted yellow hues on the sky and accentuated the colored houses on the foreground. In my other world, basking in the colors of sunset was a luxury of time. I remembered thinking to myself, what a nice change it was to be chasing the effortless sunset and sunrise instead of demanding project deadlines.